Joel Varty
Eilean Donan Castle across the loch under a wide Highland sky
Series: Scotland Hiking Expedition

Day Four: Glen Nevis, Eilean Donan, and Over the Sea to Skye

Travelphotography

Day Four of the Scotland trip. A hike through Glen Nevis at the foot of Ben Nevis with a Nevis Landscape Partnership ranger, then across to the Isle of Skye with a stop at Eilean Donan Castle.

A short drive over to Fort William and we were at the foot of Ben Nevis, the highest peak in the UK. We weren't going up it today, just a few miles through the glen at the base, with a ranger from the Nevis Landscape Partnership leading us through.

We had a lovely time at Glen Nevis. Our guide for the day was a man named Rory, and he was certainly knowledgeable. However, I do admit to being distracted while he was telling us about the geology of a particular boulder by the devastatingly beautiful landscape that was surrounding us on both sides, with mountains rearing up and little waterfalls all over the place. Certainly feels like heaven on earth right here in the Highlands.

Our ranger Rory walking us through the map at the trailhead before we headed into the glen
Our ranger Rory walking us through the map at the trailhead before we headed into the glen
Rory crouching down in the grass to talk us through something he wanted us to see
Rory crouching down in the grass to talk us through something he wanted us to see
Mist clinging to the peaks above the glen, with a lone pine on the ridge
Mist clinging to the peaks above the glen, with a lone pine on the ridge
A little waterfall tucked into the trees
A little waterfall tucked into the trees
And a bigger one further along, the burn really moving
And a bigger one further along, the burn really moving

About three miles, three hours, a few hundred feet of climb, and then back on the road. We drove west and crossed over the sea to the Isle of Skye, stopping at Eilean Donan Castle on the way.

The castle we visited was really cool because it had been rebuilt in 1912. A part of me would've liked to see it in ruins, but it was neat to see it actually in its working form. The current keepers of this castle are the MacRae clan, and it was particularly touching to see a couple of different places where Lt-Col John McCrae was honoured, the Canadian who wrote "In Flanders Fields". Sometimes you can just soak up the history of a place by being still in a place. I found that when standing out on the rock actually beside the castle, and the sun came out for a moment, the surrounding landscape just made you wonder what it would've been like in the 18th century when this place was being attacked by the English. I think there's a reason why we tend to identify with the Scottish, or at least I do. Even though I'm not Scottish at all, it's hard not to have a deep respect for the Highlanders who created the clan society in this island landscape.

The view across the loch from that rock beside the castle, the same spot I was standing on when the sun came out for a moment.
The view across the loch from that rock beside the castle, the same spot I was standing on when the sun came out for a moment.
Eilean Donan on its rocky island under that moody Highland sky
Eilean Donan on its rocky island under that moody Highland sky
The keep rising up from the green of the castle grounds
The keep rising up from the green of the castle grounds
The castle framed through one of the stone archways
The castle framed through one of the stone archways
Me on the bridge across to Eilean Donan
Me on the bridge across to Eilean Donan

Back on the road, with lochs and waterfalls everywhere we looked.

A burn coming down out of the cloud on the road west
A burn coming down out of the cloud on the road west
The 'Mount Rushmore of the Highlands', apparently. Once you clock the big dark hollow in the centre as a mouth or an eye socket, the whole crag turns into a face staring right back at you.
The 'Mount Rushmore of the Highlands', apparently. Once you clock the big dark hollow in the centre as a mouth or an eye socket, the whole crag turns into a face staring right back at you.

Overnight at Skeabost House on Skye - an absolutely lovely boutique country hotel. Everything is kind of old-fashioned, but also modern-functional.

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